Remove Sag from a Gate

The toughest part of building a fence is almost always the gate. Adding a gate means additional posts and dealing with the hardware, and they usually require finicky measurements and additional planning. Worst of all, about forty-five minutes after you install them the darned things start to sag and warp. Well, at least my gates do.

The gate in the Houston house's back yard became unhinged during Hurricane Ike a few weeks before we moved in, and the previous owner did such a lousy repair job that I had to replace the replacement within a couple of years. The replacement gate fit fine and I did a good enough construction job that it doesn't sag, but the BigBox lumber I used to build it began to warp seemingly within minutes, causing a serious case of gaposis near the top. I decided that a set of eye bolts, some cable and a turnbuckle would straighten it out, so I returned to my local BigBox store where I'd bought the lumber (blue, not orange). There on the hardware aisle I found a National Zinc Anti-Sag Gate Kit (V-852) and brought it home.



The kit consists of a two zinc-plated steel support brackets that fit over opposite corners of the crosspieces plus screws to install them; several feet of 1/8-inch galvanized steel cable, plus a pair of galvanized steel rope clips (also called cable clamps); and a ¼" turnbuckle with hook-end bolts. The turnbuckle is aluminum and the bolts are zinc-plated steel.

Installation
1) Use the included screws to install one corner bracket at the hinge end of the top crosspiece and the other at the post end of the bottom horizontal. I did it the other way, since the gate didn't sag: it was warped outward at the top.
2) Open the turnbuckle as far as it will go and place a hook through the eye hole hole in the top bracket.
3) Make a smallish loop at one end of the cable and secure with a rope clamp. Place this loop on one of the hooks in the turnbuckle. If your turnbuckle has only one hook, thread the cable through the eye screw before you secure the loop.
4) Thread the other end of the cable through the eye-hole on the bottom bracket. Make a second loop and pull it as tight as possible, then secure it with another rope clamp.
5) Screw down the turnbuckle until the cable lifts the sag out of the gate or, as in my case, unwarps the warp.


The manufacturer says this kit can reach across a diagonal up to 7½ feet, which is about the size of a 5’ x 6’ gate. My gate is smaller (3’ x 6’) and I ended up with extra cable. If you have bolt cutters, you can trim this; otherwise it's fairly easy to ignore. The tools needed for installation were a cordless drill, a ratchet and 9/32” deep-well socket for the rope clips, and an adjustable wrench for the turnbuckle. In all it took about 30 minutes to install. One thing I didn't like about the kit is that the brackets are designed to fit crosspieces that are set on edge; mine are flat to match orientation of the fence rails. It's stayed secure for a couple of years; and the zinc-plated steel parts haven't shown any rust yet. In fact, I only recently tightened up the
turnbuckle to take out some fresh warp.

An anti-sag kit is an easy-to-install and economical solution for problem that's altogether too common. This or a similar kit is sold under several labels, such as the Stanley 76-0828 and the Ace Hardware 5299029. Some have an eye bolt instead of two hooks on the turnbuckle, but as long as the parts are zinc they're pretty much all the same.

Patch Holes in Subfloor (or Drywall)

As much as we adore our furry friends, sometimes  they make a mess. One of the biggest messes any of our dogs ever made was the time she knocked over a lit floor lamp, which somehow managed to stay lit instead of shattering. It took some time, but the 150-watt bulb melted clear through the carpet and pad, eventually charring a perfectly circular three-inch hole in the subflooring of our upstairs. We came home to a house filled with smoke and a two Labradors cowering in the back yard – no flames, though, so no visit from the fire department.

So… how do you patch a hole in the floor? Well, here’s how I did it…



Tools and Materials
Utility knife
Square and pencil
Jig Saw
Scrap wood for braces
Scrap OSB for patch
Woodworkers glue
Deck or subflooring screws


 Step 1 – Evaluate
The burned area was a circular area about 3” across, which (thankfully) didn’t involve a joist. The carpet and padding will obviously need to be patched, but first to patch that hole.

 Step 2 – Clear a Space
I cut the carpet and padding back to form a square around 5” on a side, being careful not to cut across the carpet weave. It’d be a lot easier with shag, but my PO bought (cheap) berber for this room

 Step 3 – Cut Away the Char
I cut a square just slightly larger than the outline of the charred area (you can still see some dark spots at the edges) with a jig saw. Now would be a good time to stick a shop vac in the hole to clean out the crumbs.


 Step 4 – Cut Some Braces
I cut two strips an inch wide and maybe eight inches long from some scrap lumber. These will act as “fill-in” floor joists for a patch I’ll cut from a scrap of OSB.


Step 6 – Insert the Patch
I cut a patch to fit the hole from scrap OSB (you could also use plywood or other lumber) and drilled starter holes in the corners of the patch. I applied a bead of glue to each brace, and screwed the patch down securely. Just like that, the patch was done






We’ll get to the carpet repair some other time.


Parting Observations
• This obviously won’t work for large holes, and the technique is definitely unsuitable for visible patches. Since this hole was small and the patch will be hidden under a patch of carpet, though, it works well.
• This same technique is excellent for patching holes in drywall. You can use short pieces of lath for the backing braces and then tape and mud the seams afterward.
• A slick trick is to cut your patch first and then use it as a template to make the hole: the two will be almost exactly the same size and shape.

Unstick Stuck Windows Tips

Unstick Stuck Windows
Old houses are special for their charm and character, but they also have special problems. An annoyance regularly encountered by people who buy or rent in old  buildings is the stuck window. These windows stick closed for several reasons, but one common reason is that they've been painted shut. If you've found yourself battling stuck windows, here's some help to get fresh air back in your life.

Window Anatomy
Windows with panels that move up and down are called "sash windows." The panels, or sashes, move in channels that keep them from falling into the room or the back yard. The lower sash is held in place by thin strips of molding on either side called the inner stops.


  Some sash windows are single-hung, meaning only the bottom sash moves. This is more common in houses with central air-conditioning. Older houses are more likely to have double-hung windows,  where both top and bottom sashes move. If your top sash doesn't move, look at the inside of the frame: if there isn't a channel or groove to let the window slide, it isn't moving because it isn't supposed to. If there's a channel, you'll find two more molding strips that separate the channels for the sashes. These are called parting strips.


Many sashes are been frozen in place by paint that fills the spaces between the sashes and the molding. It's fairly easy to remove this paint if there aren't too many layers.


 The Hammer and Putty Knife Solution
Landlords and maintenance people who don't have to live in a house aren't always careful about where they slap paint between tenants/owners. If you've moved into a new space that's actually pretty old, there's a chance that at least one window has been painted shut with paint that fills the space between the sashes and the trim.


Many do-it-yourself manuals say to tap a thin scraper or putty knife into the gaps filled with paint to break the seal. This works best if the paint is just one layer thick, and can definitely get you started on the road to usable widows. Tap gently, holding the putty knife parallel to the glass, and work all the way around the window including at the top edge where the lock is.

If the seal of old paint is two or more layers thick, you may need more power:


A Window Zipper
 A fantastic little tool for breaking through multiple layers of paint is CRL's Red Devil Window Zipper. Saw-like teeth on a steel blade chew through old paint and pull it out of the groove, just what you need when a window has been painted shut multiple times. It's designed for hand use, so you don't need to bring a hammer, either. Slow and steady use is advisable, because the Window Zipper can gouge the frame if not used carefully. Don 't forget to check the outside joints as well as the inside for paint "seals."


What to Do When the Window Isn't Painted Shut
You'll need to assemble some tools for this procedure:

 •  a utility knife
•  hammer
•  putty knife
•  sandpaper.


1)  Carefully cut along the joint between the inner stop and the window casing with a sharp utility knife.
2)  Slip the blade of a putty knife or thin scraper between the inner stop and the window casing. You may need to tap the handle gently with a hammer to get it started.
3)  Gently pry the inner stop away from the casing with the putty knife. NOTE: some windows have screws holding the molding in place: remove the screws before prying.
4)  Pull the inner stop completely free and set aside, nails intact. Remove the other inner stop. The window can now swing free on its sash cords.
5)  Observe the stiles of the sticky sash: use a sandpaper block to remove swollen spots, drips of finish, etc. Inspect back, front, and sides of both stiles. Inspect the edges of the inner stop and parting stop for rough spots or other sticky areas, and sand smooth.
6)  If the top sash is sticky, remove the parting strip. It is difficult, if not impossible, to remove the parting strip without destroying it. Keep a relatively intact piece so you can cut new strips. Repeat the sanding step, paying special attention to the outer, or blind stop.
7)  Reassemble the sashes, parting strip, and stop. Break off a small piece of toothpick in the nail holes for the inner stop and re-insert the nails in their original holes. Re-finish the edge of the inner stop if necessary.
8)  Rub a little paraffin or candle wax inside the channels for the sashes. This will lubricate them so the sashes will slide more easily.

Replace Valve Packing in a Hose Bibb 2014

Next to replacing the toilet flapper doohickey, the leaky faucet is probably the most common household plumbing repair. Kitchen and bathroom faucets come in an astonishing selection of styles and a bewildering array of valve types, but once you've gone through the repair process once (or twice), shutting down a leak with a new washer or a cartridge rebuild is actually pretty easy. That's for indoor faucets, however: those tough, utilitarian outdoor faucets (actual names, hose bibs or bibbs) are different, however. When one of them leaks, it may not be a worn-out washer: it might be the valve packing.

"The what?" you may ask.


 Valve Packing
A hose bibb consists of a simple valve, usually brass, that screws into a molded metal body. To prevent leakage around the valve stem, bibbs are designed so that soft, waterproof material seals against the stem. This is what's called valve packing. When packing wears out, which it eventually does, the bibb starts leaking at the stem. Leaky packing is different from a worn-out washer, which allows water to leak out of the spout.


Valve packing comes in different types: you can fill the space with a felt washer or use some expensive, waterproof string. That string is either graphite-impregnated or made of polytetrafluorethane (PTFE), which you may know better by the trademark Teflon®.  Real old-timers might recall using oakum for packing, which is little more than the fibers from rope with a little grease added to make it waterproof.

If you use a felt washer, you'll have to measure to determine the size needed. String-type packing is more versatile, since it fits any size stem; we'll do that for our project.

What you Need
• Screwdriver
• Adjustable wrench
• Replacement packing (graphite or teflon string)
• Replacement faucet handle (probably)

Steps
1 - Turn off the water to the hose bibb
2 - Use the screwdriver to remove the screw in the center of the faucet handle and pull off the handle. The skeleton-style ones usually break, so you'll probably need to replace this when you're done.
3 - Remove the bonnet nut with the adjustable wrench and then unscrew the valve to take it out of the body.
4 - Clean any leftover packing from the bonnet nut and the valve stem.
5 - Wrap packing string around the valve stem several times counterclockwise.
6 - Screw the valve stem back into the body and tighten down the bonnet nut
7 - Reinstall or replace the handle (you might want to get a replacement T-handle.
The bonnet nut will compress the wrapped packing string to form a tight seal. You'll probably need to tighten the nut some more after the first few uses

Be Your Own Fuel Economy Calculator

We're not here to talk about how improving gas mileage or to complain about the difference between EPA mileage estimates and what you really get. We may get to that some other time, but for now you'll have to look elsewhere.

This is a plain old arithmetic class that I'd like to think will help people calculate their own gas mileage (AKA "fuel economy" or "MPG"). It doesn't make sense to say that it costs $50 to fill your car's tank, because 1) the tank capacity isn't the same from vehicle to vehicle and 2) the distance since the last fill-up varies, too. This is - like I said - a tutorial:



Calculate Gas Mileage in Miles per Gallon.

Doing this is almost ridiculously easy in the era of trip odometers*. Here's how you do it:

1:  Fill the gas tank, letting the pump run until it automatically shuts off. Don't top off the tank, because it adds to air pollution and wastes some of the gas you just bought.
2:  Zero out your trip odometer. You'll find instructions in the owner's manual if you need them.
3:  Drive until you need to fill the tank again. Repeat step 1, and get a receipt showing the number of gallons you've used.
4:  Record or memorize the distance from the trip odometer.

OK, now you have two numbers: The distance you've gone and the number of gallons you burned doing it. To calculate fuel economy in MPG, divide that first number by the second.

MPG = distance traveled ÷ gallons consumed

The number is reported as "miles per gallon" (MPG) in the US.

Example
1) It took 21.7 gallons to fill your Escalade. You've driven 365.5 miles since your last fill-up. Your gas mileage is calculated using the formula

MPG = 365.5 ÷ 21.7
Your fuel economy = 16.8 MPG (miles per gallon)

2) It took 11.2 gallons to fill your Prius Sedan and it's been 501.1 miles since you last filled up. Your gas mileage can be calculated using the formula

MPG = 501.1 ÷ 11.2
Your fuel economy is 44.7 MPG (miles per gallon).

Since results vary with driving conditions, you should calculate your mileage over several fill-ups to get a good feeling for the fuel economy of your ride. We all tend to get lower mileage during our daily commutes than on long highway drives, which is why the EPA reports estimated City and Highway numbers.

What does this all mean? Well, the cost of filling the Escalade is about twice that of filling the Prius, but the hybrid's mileage is between two and three times that of the Caddy.

There: you don't have an excuse to express gas mileage in "dollars per fill-up" any more!


* If you don't have a trip odometer, don't despair: just jot your odometer mileage down on the receipt every time you fill up and do the subtraction. Feel free to use a calculator if you must.

Lay Out a Square Corner with Just Two Tape Measures

Most builders know a simple geometry trick that makes it dirt simple to lay out a square corner for your patio, deck or other structure. All you need is a couple of tape measures. It’s all because of the Pythagorean Theorem and the 3-4-5 right triangle.

Skip the Explanation and go straight to the How to ==>

If you happened to sleep through class that day (or ditched school instead) you may not remember who Pythagoras was or what his “theorem” means to you. So let me refresh that vague memory.

The Pythagorean Theorem says that the sum of the squares on the sides of a right triangle are equal to the square of the hypotenuse.



So what? Well, that little bit of information has been put to use by builders and surveyors for centuries to lay out square corners. Here’s why: a “right triangle” is one that has a 90° or square corner, which is the gold standard for building. The hypotenuse is the long side, the one opposite the 90° corner. Old Pythagoras deduced that if you square the lengths of the two short sides and add the numbers together, the sum will be equal to the square of the length of the third side.

If you have a right triangle whose sides are 5” and 6”, you can figure out the length of the long side: 5 x 5 = 25, 6 x 6 = 36, and the sum is 61. The long side is 7.81025” long. The square root of 61 (according to my calculator


A 3-4-5 right triangle whose square corner is defined
 by a framing square .
 Eyes glazed over yet? Wondering how this helps builders? Well, there’s a special case when the two short sides of a triangle are 3” and 4” long. The squares are 3 x 3 = 9 and 4 x 4 = 16, so the long side has a length that is the square root of 25 – and that’s a simple “5.” Some builder figured out that they could use this relationship, commonly called a 3-4-5 right triangle, to lay their square corners. One interesting feature of a 3-4-5 triangle is that you can multiply the three numbers by any constant and the same relationship holds true, so the 6-8-10 and 9-12-15 triangles are also right triangles.

What all that means is that you can use this ancient relationship to define a square corner for any project that’s too big for a framing square.

  And here’s how you do it:

What You’ll Need

• Three stakes
• Hammer
• Two tape measures
• Helper
• String


How to Lay Out a Square Corner

1)  Define one corner and drive a stake at that point. This is Stake A.
2)  Use one of your tape measures to measure exactly eight feet along one side of your structure. Drive a second stake at the eight-foot point. This is Stake B.
3)  Hook tape measure #1 onto Stake A and tape measure #2 onto Stake B.
4)  Extend tape measure #1 a bit more than six feet.
5)  Extend tape measure #2 a bit more than ten feet.
6)  Swing the two tapes back and forth until the six foot mark on #1 and the ten foot mark on #2 are touching. Have your helper drive Stake C at this point.
7)  String lines connecting the two pair of stakes (A-B and A-C)

The line that connects Stakes A and C now forms a right angle with the line that connects Stakes A and B. It's as simple as that!

Easy Method to Find the Center of a Circle

Circles have an unusual geometry: they are the most regular, most symmetrical shape possible; but because there are no corners, finding one's center is more harder than you might expect. To find the precise center of a square or rectangle, you only need to draw lines from the opposite corners: the center is the point where they cross. The trick to finding a circle's center is creating corners of your own and using them. For small circles, all you need is a piece of paper, book or  some other object with a right-angle corner. If the circle is larger, a sheet of plywood or some other solid rectangle will do the trick.



What You'll Need
• A piece of paper large enough to reach across your circle
• Pencil
• Straightedge

nstructions
1)  Lay the sheet of paper on the circle so that one corner just touches the circle's perimeter. Hold the paper firmly and use the pencil to mark the exact points where the two edges of the paper cross the circle's outline.

2)  Connect the marks a ruler or other straightedge and draw a pencil line between them. Your line passes through the center.
3)  Rotate the paper and lay it on the circle at a different angle.
4)  Make the two new tick marks and connect them with another pencil line.

The circle's center is where the two lines cross.

Warning:
The corner you use must be a right angle or this exercise will not work.

Simple Method to Determine the Radius of an Arch

An arc is a section of the outline, or circumference, of a circle. This common shape appears in many forms, like the arch of a bridge or the top of certain windows.

If you want to create a copy of an arc, you can either trace it or build one like it from another circle the same size. Tracing is easy, but if you want to build your own circle, you need to find the radius of that circle. If it's complete or nearly complete, it's not hard to find the center, and that will let you measure its radius and diameter. But if the arch is only one small segment of the whole circle, finding those values might seem hopeless. It's easier than it looks, though: all you need is a tape measure and a pencil. Well, maybe a calculator, too...



What You'll Need
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Calculator (optional)

How To
1) Mark two points on the arc
2) Draw a line between the two points and measure the length. Call the length L.
3) Find the midpoint of the line, halfway between your two marks.
4) Measure the distance from the midpoint to the arc. Call this distance H.
5) Divide L by 2 and square the result,
6) Divide the answer by H and add H to the result.
7) Divide the answer by 2. The quotient is R, the radius of the curved arc.

If you need the diameter of the circle instead of the radius, the diameter is the radius times 2.
Example
An arch's measurements are L = 40 and H = 5

L / 2 = 20
20 * 20 = 400
400 / 5 = 80
80 + 5 = 85
85 / 2 = 42.5, the radius of the arch
the diameter = 85
Hint: the units (meters, feet, inches, miles) don't make any difference, as long as the units of H and L are the same. The units of the radius will be the same as H and L.

Simple Method to Determine the Radius of an Arch

An arc is a section of the outline, or circumference, of a circle. This common shape appears in many forms, like the arch of a bridge or the top of certain windows.

If you want to create a copy of an arc, you can either trace it or build one like it from another circle the same size. Tracing is easy, but if you want to build your own circle, you need to find the radius of that circle. If it's complete or nearly complete, it's not hard to find the center, and that will let you measure its radius and diameter. But if the arch is only one small segment of the whole circle, finding those values might seem hopeless. It's easier than it looks, though: all you need is a tape measure and a pencil. Well, maybe a calculator, too...



What You'll Need
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Calculator (optional)

How To
1) Mark two points on the arc
2) Draw a line between the two points and measure the length. Call the length L.
3) Find the midpoint of the line, halfway between your two marks.
4) Measure the distance from the midpoint to the arc. Call this distance H.
5) Divide L by 2 and square the result,
6) Divide the answer by H and add H to the result.
7) Divide the answer by 2. The quotient is R, the radius of the curved arc.

If you need the diameter of the circle instead of the radius, the diameter is the radius times 2.
Example
An arch's measurements are L = 40 and H = 5

L / 2 = 20
20 * 20 = 400
400 / 5 = 80
80 + 5 = 85
85 / 2 = 42.5, the radius of the arch
the diameter = 85
Hint: the units (meters, feet, inches, miles) don't make any difference, as long as the units of H and L are the same. The units of the radius will be the same as H and L.

Simple Method to Determine the Radius of an Arch

An arc is a section of the outline, or circumference, of a circle. This common shape appears in many forms, like the arch of a bridge or the top of certain windows.

If you want to create a copy of an arc, you can either trace it or build one like it from another circle the same size. Tracing is easy, but if you want to build your own circle, you need to find the radius of that circle. If it's complete or nearly complete, it's not hard to find the center, and that will let you measure its radius and diameter. But if the arch is only one small segment of the whole circle, finding those values might seem hopeless. It's easier than it looks, though: all you need is a tape measure and a pencil. Well, maybe a calculator, too...



What You'll Need
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Calculator (optional)

How To
1) Mark two points on the arc
2) Draw a line between the two points and measure the length. Call the length L.
3) Find the midpoint of the line, halfway between your two marks.
4) Measure the distance from the midpoint to the arc. Call this distance H.
5) Divide L by 2 and square the result,
6) Divide the answer by H and add H to the result.
7) Divide the answer by 2. The quotient is R, the radius of the curved arc.

If you need the diameter of the circle instead of the radius, the diameter is the radius times 2.
Example
An arch's measurements are L = 40 and H = 5

L / 2 = 20
20 * 20 = 400
400 / 5 = 80
80 + 5 = 85
85 / 2 = 42.5, the radius of the arch
the diameter = 85
Hint: the units (meters, feet, inches, miles) don't make any difference, as long as the units of H and L are the same. The units of the radius will be the same as H and L.

Replace a Doorknob new 2014

Whether you've decided to re-key an entry door by swapping out an exterior door knob or replace interior knobs to freshen the decor, changing the hardware is essentially the same process. There's little difference between the construction of interior and exterior door hardware, although the strength and quality of the material used to build the hardware will vary widely.

How Doorknobs Work
The visible parts of doorknobs are fairly simple. You see a knob or a lever on both sides of the door, a raised disk called the rose between the knob and the surface of the door, and a metal latch protruding from the edge. Turning the knob retracts the latch into a flat latch plate;and  the latch engages with a matching metal strike plate on the door jamb when the door is closed. If the knob includes a lock, there is a keyhole on the outside and some form of lever on the inside to engage the lock.


The parts inside the doorknob have much more variety. Consumer-grade exterior locks only differ from interior locking knobs by being weatherproof and somewhat more sturdy. Security of these locks should be enhanced by installing a deadbolt. Cylinder locks provide additional security but are more difficult to install and replace. Regardless of the style, the working parts mount inside a large hole with a standard diameter of 2-1/8” that's bored through the door, while the latch is connected through a long hole drilled into the space from the door's edge. The inner and outer knobs connect with a spindle through the middle and a pair of screws. When you turn either knob, the spindle rotates and retracts the latch. When you release the handle, springs return the latch to its extended position.

Removing the Old Knob
1) Remove the screws holding the knobs together. For locking knobs, you may have to rotate the rose on the inside of the door, lining up holes in the rose with the screw heads.
2) When the screws are completely out, remove the knobs and roses on both sides. This will expose the interior workings.
3) Remove the screws from the latch plate on the door's edge, pull the latch bolt out through the edge. Fit the parts together and set aside to donate to an architectural salvage shop or recycling center for building materials.


Installing the New Knob
4) The distance from the edge of the door to the center of the hole is called the backset. Two different backset distances are common: 2-⅛ and 2-¾ inches. The new knob must have the same as the old knob to keep the latch bolt centered in the space. Many knobs in stores are adjustable to fit either backset. Consult the packaging for instructions to adjust  the backset if needed.
5) Push the new latch assembly through the hole in the side of the door with the curved or angled face of the bolt facing in the direction the door swings when closing. The new latch plate will likely be the same size as the old one, but if it's larger, enlarge the mortise with a wood chisel. TIP: Most of the time the screw holes will line up, but it helps to “tighten” the old holes by pushing a broken wood match or toothpick into each hole, coated with wood glue.
6) Allow the glue to dry before screwing the latch plate into the side of the door. Swing the door until nearly closed to ensure that the latch lines up with the strike plate and is at the right orientation.
7) One knob is usually fixed to a spindle that goes through the hole in the door and a matching hole in the latch. The knob with exposed screw holes always goes on the lock side, usually the inside Thread the spindle through the latch bolt, then press the rose against the face of the door. If you can still see the hole through the door, adjust the backset distance and repeat. The knob must be centered for the rose to completely cover the hole.
8) Place the second knob on the spindle and verify that the knobs are correctly oriented: a lock knob or lever belongs on the interior, while a keyhole or lock release hole belongs on the outside. The installation convention is to have the widest part of the keyhole up. Compare to the directions that came with the new knob, as needed.
9) Test the knob and lock function before you close the the door. If the new latch will engage the strike plate already installed on the jamb and the finish is correct, you can leave it in place. If the old strike plate has a different finish or is damaged or if the new latch doesn't engage, replace the strike plate. The mortise for the strike plate may need reshaping, as above. Old screw holes that will be re-used or are too close to new screw holes are best plugged with wood and glue as above.
10) Verify that the door closes smoothly and locking knobs lock securely.


NOTE:  Replacing mortise locks (flat boxes fitted into the edge of the door; rare except in old buildings) or cylinder locks requires different techniques. Mortise locks especially may exceed the kills of a novice.

Use Guest Posting For Effective SEO

Guest Posting is always been a best way to showcase your talent as a writer and get some links back to your blog. But in Recent years Many spammers tried this method to manipulate search Rankings by just submitting low quality guest posts with some backlinks in it and they succeeded too. This is the worst thing happen for original good writers because they know Sooner or later Google will take action on this. They will not let Spammer top the Rankings.

And Google did the same thing few months Ago as expected, their new update hits many guest post accepting sites for having low quality content or Rich anchor text. Although it's not affected that much search queries, but certainly affected large scale guest poster, also guest post accepting sites.
.
After this update, many good writers also left guest blogging due to Matt Cutts words, saying "It is Dead for SEO". Even I was in a bit of confusion. But, I consulted with Many SEO experts and got quite similar Answers from Everyone.

All of them said, Guest Posting is not Dead and never gonna be Dead for Quality Writers. Google only wants to Remove Spammers. It will not affect all those quality websites who accepting only quality posts with In-depth Knowledge. Everyone can still Use Guest Posting, but their main Aim should be to build Reputation and generate traffic. Link Building should not be your fist Aim, if it is, then , you are one of those Spammers who want to manipulate Search Rankings.

Use Guest Posting For Effective SEO

Guest Posting is always been a best way to showcase your talent as a writer and get some links back to your blog. But in Recent years Many spammers tried this method to manipulate search Rankings by just submitting low quality guest posts with some backlinks in it and they succeeded too. This is the worst thing happen for original good writers because they know Sooner or later Google will take action on this. They will not let Spammer top the Rankings.

And Google did the same thing few months Ago as expected, their new update hits many guest post accepting sites for having low quality content or Rich anchor text. Although it's not affected that much search queries, but certainly affected large scale guest poster, also guest post accepting sites.
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After this update, many good writers also left guest blogging due to Matt Cutts words, saying "It is Dead for SEO". Even I was in a bit of confusion. But, I consulted with Many SEO experts and got quite similar Answers from Everyone.

All of them said, Guest Posting is not Dead and never gonna be Dead for Quality Writers. Google only wants to Remove Spammers. It will not affect all those quality websites who accepting only quality posts with In-depth Knowledge. Everyone can still Use Guest Posting, but their main Aim should be to build Reputation and generate traffic. Link Building should not be your fist Aim, if it is, then , you are one of those Spammers who want to manipulate Search Rankings.

Google adsense is one of the programs PPC

Google adsense is one of the programs PPC ( Pay Per Click ) is most favored by publishers and bloggers around the world including Indonesia . The PPC program also creates a lot of young millionaires milliuner even over the internet , you know not a real scam . Ok as the title of this article , I will tell how to get $ 100 per day from google adsense ... with EASY without having a website :) .

If you can get an average of $ 100 per day means in a month will receive approximately $ 3,000 per month . If converted into rupiah at a rate of Rp 9500 , - per dollar , then monthly earnings are obtained approximately Rp 28.500.000 , - wuow a figure which I think very much . This time you are definitely more curious and interested to try it , read this article .

Oh yes , before I explain further how to earn $ 100 per day from google adsense , you should first consider the screen shoot below . Maybe it will make you more curious :) .

Maybe it is hard to believe the screen shoot above , how might be able to get $ 100 per day with ease without having to have a website or blog ? Ok , since you 've been very curious so I'll tell her secret . Please you are doing right now, and you will soon see the screen shoot desired Adsense revenue right in front of your monitor , yup you read that right . Just takes action in the not too distant future :) .

The following are important steps you should do :

    First of all open the first page in your browser 

    It would appear Google Adsense Money Generator . Then fill in the 2 columns on the page

    In the " Money you wanna make- today " content with $ 100

    Then in the " Money you made yesterday " content as well as $ 100

    Then click the Generate Cash

    Bumm screen shoot your income today would appear the new yard ! !

You want a screen shoot more fantastic ? Could be OK to , it is up to make a screen shoot whatever income you want: P. Eits do not be angry yes , I already know how cation instead OK to be angry ?

An important point that I want to say here is , most people would be very interested and curious when you see something that generates a lot of money but not everyone really wants to work hard to realize the desire to get it . So many people are looking for information on how to make money through the internet but only a few are actually willing to work hard to make it happen . A simple example , when you had been working on points 1 to 6 of course you are also doing something , and finally succeeded , although only a screen shoot it, still it is a business .

Online business - whatever it is - is no different than an offline business , all require hard work , which sets it apart is how. Likewise with Google Adsense , if now you ask me if there are people who have an income of $ 100 per day from Google Adsense ... the answer is YES , there are many people who have income of $ 100 per day from Google Adsense or even more . And to get all of it , they have to work hard consistently and through a process that is not for a while .

If you are interested in earning $ 100 per day from Google Adsense , then you have to start working hard from now . There is no specific time limit , your target may be achieved in a matter of months, or it could be achieved in a matter of time until the annual . In essence , to earn $ 100 per day from Google Adsense is not impossible , everything we do in earnest will surely give equivalent results . Hopefully this article inspires !