Unstick Stuck Windows
Old houses are special for their charm and character, but they also have special problems. An annoyance regularly encountered by people who buy or rent in old buildings is the stuck window. These windows stick closed for several reasons, but one common reason is that they've been painted shut. If you've found yourself battling stuck windows, here's some help to get fresh air back in your life.
Window Anatomy
Windows with panels that move up and down are called "sash windows." The panels, or sashes, move in channels that keep them from falling into the room or the back yard. The lower sash is held in place by thin strips of molding on either side called the inner stops.
Some sash windows are single-hung, meaning only the bottom sash moves. This is more common in houses with central air-conditioning. Older houses are more likely to have double-hung windows, where both top and bottom sashes move. If your top sash doesn't move, look at the inside of the frame: if there isn't a channel or groove to let the window slide, it isn't moving because it isn't supposed to. If there's a channel, you'll find two more molding strips that separate the channels for the sashes. These are called parting strips.
Many sashes are been frozen in place by paint that fills the spaces between the sashes and the molding. It's fairly easy to remove this paint if there aren't too many layers.
The Hammer and Putty Knife Solution
Landlords and maintenance people who don't have to live in a house aren't always careful about where they slap paint between tenants/owners. If you've moved into a new space that's actually pretty old, there's a chance that at least one window has been painted shut with paint that fills the space between the sashes and the trim.
Many do-it-yourself manuals say to tap a thin scraper or putty knife into the gaps filled with paint to break the seal. This works best if the paint is just one layer thick, and can definitely get you started on the road to usable widows. Tap gently, holding the putty knife parallel to the glass, and work all the way around the window including at the top edge where the lock is.
If the seal of old paint is two or more layers thick, you may need more power:
A Window Zipper
A fantastic little tool for breaking through multiple layers of paint is CRL's Red Devil Window Zipper. Saw-like teeth on a steel blade chew through old paint and pull it out of the groove, just what you need when a window has been painted shut multiple times. It's designed for hand use, so you don't need to bring a hammer, either. Slow and steady use is advisable, because the Window Zipper can gouge the frame if not used carefully. Don 't forget to check the outside joints as well as the inside for paint "seals."
What to Do When the Window Isn't Painted Shut
You'll need to assemble some tools for this procedure:
• a utility knife
• hammer
• putty knife
• sandpaper.
1) Carefully cut along the joint between the inner stop and the window casing with a sharp utility knife.
2) Slip the blade of a putty knife or thin scraper between the inner stop and the window casing. You may need to tap the handle gently with a hammer to get it started.
3) Gently pry the inner stop away from the casing with the putty knife. NOTE: some windows have screws holding the molding in place: remove the screws before prying.
4) Pull the inner stop completely free and set aside, nails intact. Remove the other inner stop. The window can now swing free on its sash cords.
5) Observe the stiles of the sticky sash: use a sandpaper block to remove swollen spots, drips of finish, etc. Inspect back, front, and sides of both stiles. Inspect the edges of the inner stop and parting stop for rough spots or other sticky areas, and sand smooth.
6) If the top sash is sticky, remove the parting strip. It is difficult, if not impossible, to remove the parting strip without destroying it. Keep a relatively intact piece so you can cut new strips. Repeat the sanding step, paying special attention to the outer, or blind stop.
7) Reassemble the sashes, parting strip, and stop. Break off a small piece of toothpick in the nail holes for the inner stop and re-insert the nails in their original holes. Re-finish the edge of the inner stop if necessary.
8) Rub a little paraffin or candle wax inside the channels for the sashes. This will lubricate them so the sashes will slide more easily.
Old houses are special for their charm and character, but they also have special problems. An annoyance regularly encountered by people who buy or rent in old buildings is the stuck window. These windows stick closed for several reasons, but one common reason is that they've been painted shut. If you've found yourself battling stuck windows, here's some help to get fresh air back in your life.
Window Anatomy
Windows with panels that move up and down are called "sash windows." The panels, or sashes, move in channels that keep them from falling into the room or the back yard. The lower sash is held in place by thin strips of molding on either side called the inner stops.
Some sash windows are single-hung, meaning only the bottom sash moves. This is more common in houses with central air-conditioning. Older houses are more likely to have double-hung windows, where both top and bottom sashes move. If your top sash doesn't move, look at the inside of the frame: if there isn't a channel or groove to let the window slide, it isn't moving because it isn't supposed to. If there's a channel, you'll find two more molding strips that separate the channels for the sashes. These are called parting strips.
Many sashes are been frozen in place by paint that fills the spaces between the sashes and the molding. It's fairly easy to remove this paint if there aren't too many layers.
The Hammer and Putty Knife Solution
Landlords and maintenance people who don't have to live in a house aren't always careful about where they slap paint between tenants/owners. If you've moved into a new space that's actually pretty old, there's a chance that at least one window has been painted shut with paint that fills the space between the sashes and the trim.
Many do-it-yourself manuals say to tap a thin scraper or putty knife into the gaps filled with paint to break the seal. This works best if the paint is just one layer thick, and can definitely get you started on the road to usable widows. Tap gently, holding the putty knife parallel to the glass, and work all the way around the window including at the top edge where the lock is.
If the seal of old paint is two or more layers thick, you may need more power:
A Window Zipper
A fantastic little tool for breaking through multiple layers of paint is CRL's Red Devil Window Zipper. Saw-like teeth on a steel blade chew through old paint and pull it out of the groove, just what you need when a window has been painted shut multiple times. It's designed for hand use, so you don't need to bring a hammer, either. Slow and steady use is advisable, because the Window Zipper can gouge the frame if not used carefully. Don 't forget to check the outside joints as well as the inside for paint "seals."
What to Do When the Window Isn't Painted Shut
You'll need to assemble some tools for this procedure:
• a utility knife
• hammer
• putty knife
• sandpaper.
1) Carefully cut along the joint between the inner stop and the window casing with a sharp utility knife.
2) Slip the blade of a putty knife or thin scraper between the inner stop and the window casing. You may need to tap the handle gently with a hammer to get it started.
3) Gently pry the inner stop away from the casing with the putty knife. NOTE: some windows have screws holding the molding in place: remove the screws before prying.
4) Pull the inner stop completely free and set aside, nails intact. Remove the other inner stop. The window can now swing free on its sash cords.
5) Observe the stiles of the sticky sash: use a sandpaper block to remove swollen spots, drips of finish, etc. Inspect back, front, and sides of both stiles. Inspect the edges of the inner stop and parting stop for rough spots or other sticky areas, and sand smooth.
6) If the top sash is sticky, remove the parting strip. It is difficult, if not impossible, to remove the parting strip without destroying it. Keep a relatively intact piece so you can cut new strips. Repeat the sanding step, paying special attention to the outer, or blind stop.
7) Reassemble the sashes, parting strip, and stop. Break off a small piece of toothpick in the nail holes for the inner stop and re-insert the nails in their original holes. Re-finish the edge of the inner stop if necessary.
8) Rub a little paraffin or candle wax inside the channels for the sashes. This will lubricate them so the sashes will slide more easily.
No comments:
Post a Comment